【Prison Tres Speciale Pour Femmes】

The Prison Tres Speciale Pour FemmesTikTok community has an affinity for aesthetics. The more niche, the better. The more nostalgic, the longer the trend will last. There's no set formula, really, and it's hard to tell which trends stand the test of time. 2023 made that evident.

This year, TikTok-bred beauty and fashion trends were abundant: a few seasonal, some in celebration of certain landmark films, and others a product of major cultural moments that entranced the internet (read: Gwyneth Paltrow's ski trial). The terms to describe said trends are increasingly specific, only known to those who find themselves on an endless FYP scroll. From the ubiquitous "-girl" trends — coastal cowgirl and tomato girl, to name a few — to the visual aesthetics ruling the zeitgeist – Barbiecore and mermaidcore are prime examples – there was no shortage of this phenomenon.

SEE ALSO: Think pink: The rise and evolution of #Barbiecore

But this was also the year that such trends, and their connotations, were put under scrutiny, too. Culture writers questioned the nature of trend culture with the various terms put forth by TikTok and subsequently by the media. Of microtrends and their depiction in the media, Rebecca Jennings wrote for Vox, "Reading them all in a row, you'd be forgiven for thinking these terms are at best silly and meaningless, and at worst obnoxious and insidious." Delia Cai, correspondent at Vanity Fair, theorized that TikTok's "girl" trends place unduly emphasis on femininity and whiteness: "It’s this specific idea of girlhood that we are currently consumed by, everywhere we see: exuberant and hyperfeminine, playful and innocent—and therefore, almost always white."

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There was also a tangible resistance from consumers and TikTokkers themselves. Questions of individuality and mass consumerism peppered trend discourse. The adoption of "blueberry milk nails" — the microtrend of wearing a light blue manicure — sparked much of this conversation. Creators suggested that TikTok's trend trap has induced overconsumption and the repackaging of existing trends to no end. Earlier in the year, de-influencing became a sort of ironic reaction to the widespread cycle of a) influencing and b) purchasing products endorsed by creators. Instead, creators claimed to review materials more honestly, with some pushing their followers to avoid unnecessary consumption of the things TikTok touts as essentials.

Despite a tangible fatigue, these trends continue to sprout and fuel lifestyle content on TikTok. Brands have massively played into this, too, and show no signs of slowing down. The discourse, however, seems necessary: a way to pause and consider the intentions behind influencing and TikTok as a whole, both of which increasingly serve commercial purposes. And yet, on a basic level, microtrends can be fun to observe, and even engage with. Trends will come and go, and no ones knows this better than TikTok. For some, each new aesthetic is just a way to have a little fun.

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Tomato girl

Credit: TikTok / @aysha_harun Credit: TikTok / @atosaaghakhani

Summer is prime time for trends to take flight, and "tomato girl" did just that. This aesthetic took inspiration from Mediterranean locales, adding a romantic twist to summer palettes associated with them. Think pops of red, orange, and warm hues, with some florals thrown in. The wardrobe you would associate with guests at The White Lotus(with its Sicilian base in Season 2) is a good reference point: sundresses, headscarves, and sun-kissed cheeks. TikTokkers were quick to take on tomato girl makeup, in particular, painting on the cream blush and red-stained lips.

Barbiecore

Credit: TikTok / @kelseyohcriner. Credit: TikTok / @rashellechanel.

Barbiecore may not need much of an explanation, but it does have a distinctive history. The sub-aesthetic made a comeback in 2022, when buzz of Greta Gerwig's Barbiefirst making it to the internet. As the craze around the film burgeoned to unprecedented levels, so did the trend. Bursts of magenta, sequins, bows, and tulle took over runways, red carpets, and our FYPs.

SEE ALSO: The ultimate Barbiecore gift guide

Coastal cowgirl

Credit: TikTok / @abbeysadlei.

Beige linen pants, crochet tops in baby-blue, frilly chequered dresses, a pair of cowboy boots, and maybe a hat thrown in for good measure. This extremely niche cocktail of items comprises of coastal cowgirl, an aesthetic that garnered a massive following on TikTok and intended to be a dreamy interpretation of summertime by the sea. The hashtag has over 217.2 million views and counting.

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Quiet luxury

Credit: TikTok / @zozosfits. Credit: TikTok / @oliviaamcdowell.

The presence of "quiet luxury" is a contentious one. At its core, quiet luxury is about timelessness: neutral blazers and cardigans, loafers, and largely logo-free items (which likely cost much more). On TikTok, many have used this trend to discuss more affordable options for luxury products, while others just outwardly present "old money style" as an coveted look.

But its undertone of exclusivity has also been unpacked. Videos titled the subject "the problem with quiet luxury" have seen over 29 million views. Some pointed out that the term is actually a placeholder for the "old money" aesthetic, and is innately equated with class, race, and elitism. The likes of Sofia Richie and Gwyneth Paltrow are seen as figureheads for this aesthetic, while shows like Successionoutwardly reflect an emphasis on "stealth wealth".

Mermaidcore

Credit: TikTok / @nazliayunus. Credit: TikTok / @glossygurl.

As with barbiecore, #mermaidcore found its footing via a major movie release. The release of The Little Mermaid, Disney's live-action adaptation of the classic, spurred a fascination with mythical creatures and their sartorial distinctions. On TikTok, creators showed peak creativity with this trend: pearl-encrusted eyeshadow looks and fishtail plaits were paired with ethereal, cream-toned dresses and aqua-toned skirts. Halle Bailey's red carpets looks, combined with Gen-Z's propensity for nostalgia, did the trick here.